Words of Wisdom

“One travels more usefully when alone, because he reflects more” - Thomas Jefferson

Saturday, November 16, 2013

Australia Adventure: Down the Queensland Coast!!


The morning of our departure began with a bang.  Literally, as we were woken by the sounds of a fight outside our rooms.  Gerard (a Canadian) and an unknown man were duking it out, grappling with each other as we all watched from the sidelines, unsure of whether to intervene.  The scrap finally ended when the unknown guy grabbed onto Gerard’s balls, making it very painful for the Canadian.  Others intervened and the two were broken up.  We later found out that this unknown guy was actually mentally unstable and that he had attacked another roommate of his before Gerard got involved.  And thus my time at Asylum came to an end. 

Guillaume, Jean-Michel, and I began our departure plans.  Having suffered from a perforated ear drum, Guillaume took himself off to the doctors while Jean-Michel and I secured a rental car for the ride down, a white Ford Station wagon.  The trip would take us fifteen days to complete, landing us in Brisbane on July 31st.

Guillaume returned with a diagnosis that he needed to see an ear specialist, so we decided to stop somewhere along our journey to see one.  With a final farewell to everyone we met in Cairn’s we began our drive!

It was 3pm by the time we left, so we settled on staying at Mission Beach for the night.  We picked up a chicken for dinner and made our way to the hostel, Jackaroos.  It was located outside of Mission Beach and we had to drive down a gravel road in the dark to find it.  We were pleasantly surprised when we got there.  Jackaroo’s was a hostel tucked away in the rainforest, surrounded by the sounds of nature and quite a nice start to our trip.  Our night unfolded with a great meal, some competitive foosball and some good conversations with other backpackers.

An early rise gave me a chance to begin my morning exercises once more and to relax before we were to leave.  Gemma (one of the girls we had met the night before) was due to leave the next day and our paths were likely to cross so we swapped contact info.  And then we checked out the beach!  Mission Beach spanned a fair distance and the two Quebecois and I relaxed on the sand and played some Frisbee.  There were also plenty of wallabies around town and we enjoyed the sight of them hopping around.  

Cassowary!!
We hit the road later in the afternoon, hoping to make it to Cardwell.  This would just be an overnight stop as it was halfway between Mission Beach and Townsville, and we would be staying in a motel room as the hostels were full up.  We had just finished a rainforest walk along the way when we spotted it.  The elusive Cassowary!  This is a rare bird located in North Queensland which (if approached) can be incredibly dangerous.  It has a retractable claw (much like a velociraptor) that has been known to cause severe damage to soft tissue. 

 So we slowed down and took lots of pictures.  The cassowary also had a youngling with it....BONUS!!

We celebrated that night in our motel room with a hearty meal composed of Kangaroo steak, and some potatoes and carrots.  Not to mention a few cups of goon! 

I should note that I switched up my drinking habits.  I had decided that beer, and rum and coke was bleeding my wallet dry.  So I would try the goon diet with the Quebecois.  Goon is just the word for cheap, boxed wine.  I had a taste for dry white, so we managed to find a box of 4 litres to share for $11.  Not too shabby!

Wallaman!!
And then we were off to Townsville!  Jean-Michel knew of a waterfall along the way that was supposed to be amazing, so we decided on a stop there.  It was a half-hour detour that took us up a windy cliff-road in rain that showed no signs of slowing down.  We parked and made our way over to the lookout only to be met by a barrage of fog clouding the famed falls from our view.  We could hear the roar of the water and looked to the signpost.  It read ‘Wallaman Falls: Australia’s largest single-drop waterfall, 268 metres’.  We knew we had to see the falls so all three of us made our way down a muddy path toward the base of the falls.  It was worth the trek.  Wallaman Falls greeted us with a roar, its waters cascading down the rock face toward their end in the massive pool below.  Two hundred and sixty eight metres of rock and water stared down at us, the sound was deafening and the sight was awe inspiring.  You could feel the power of such a force and the thought of its might struck me.

Size does matter.

We left Wallaman with a renewed energy, excited for a night in Townsville.  And what a night we had!  It began with pasta and goon, but quickly escalated to trip to the bar Mad Cow where we proceeded to get Mad Drunk.

Guillaume took a trip to the doctors the next day, leaving Jean-Michel and myself to explore the city.  We took a walk along the waterfront, marveling at the sparkling blue waters and the sun-kissed girls who were out in full force on this sunny day.  We also took a trip up Castle Hill, a large mound that overlooked the city and ocean offering superb views of the surrounding area. 

We had made plans with Guillaume to have burgers and fries for dinner, but we hadn’t any word from him by 5pm, so we made our way to the hospital.  It wasn’t until 7pm that we left with Guillaume!  He had spent the entire day waiting to be seen, only to need to go back two days from now!    Needless to say, the burgers and fries were a welcome sight.

The next day we boarded the ferry across to Magnetic Island, also affectionately known as Maggy. 

We booked into Base Backpackers and took the island bus to the north.  We stopped along the way at the Bungalow Bay Koala Sanctuary where we took part in a wildlife tour.  We got to handle echidnas, lizards, crocodiles, snakes, and finally, a koala!

We later took a walk past Horseshoe Bay and onto Balding bay, only to realize it was a nudist beach!  We weren’t too pleased with the gender of its inhabitants, so we doubled back and went to Radical Bay where we relaxed by sleeping on the beach.

We made it back to Horseshoe Bay to experience the sunset along with some fish and chips.  It was a great way to cap our day. 

Back at Base, we met our roommates, only to discover that they were some of the girls we had met at Jackaroos!  We chilled down at the beach, enjoying the goon and their company.

An early morning start the next day brought us back to Townsville.  We carted Guillaume back to the hospital and began to plan our next adventure.  We knew we would be driving into Airlie Beach later in the day and that the famous Whitsunday cruises were held out of there.  Jean-Michel and I walked to the nearest information centre and asked the help of the guide there.  She ran through all the boats that were available.  There were two main kinds: the sailboats and the party boats.  The most popular party boat, the Clipper, existed of a two night cruise on a boat that featured a dance floor, a water slide and lots of drinking.  This was enticing.  However, we felt that we would benefit more from a sailing boat experience so we called up the company of the boat that was available, the Boomerang. 

I was told that there were only six seats remaining and that it was wise to book as soon as we could.  However, we had no idea when Guillaume would be out of the hospital.  After explaining our conundrum to the lady on the phone, she agreed to hold our spots for a short time.  It was an hour later when we received word from Guillaume.  He was set to go!  I called the agency back and booked us on the Boomerang for the next day! 

We drove into Airlie Beach later that day and booked into Beach Backpackers, meeting Gemma from Mission Beach along the way!  She introduced us to some Irish guys she had met on her journey and we all spent a night out on the town together.

And the next day was the cruise!  A group of 27 of us board the Boomerang, crewed by three steady hands.  Their names were Liam, Josh and Haley and they would take us around the Whitsunday Islands on a two-night cruise.  We were joined by Gemma and quickly made friends with a few others, including three girls called Fenna, Sarah and Jasmine.

The day was filled with introductions and sailing lessons.  The crew had us sitting on the edge as the skipper Liam guided the boat through the crashing waves which swept over our legs and the deck.  Darkness descended a few hours later with the advent of a meal the crew cooked up.  And food is always accompanied by drink, so we started up the festivities by playing many games of Ring of Fire. 

The night soon grew cold, which we took as a sign that it was time for bed.

Whitehaven!!
We sailed the next day to Whitehaven beach.  As we made our way over the hills and through the trees, we saw the Irish guys we had partied with at Airlie Beach.  They had decided to go on the Clipper and they looked tired!  Turns out party boats turn you into zombies!

It was quite windy and thus cold when we arrived but I was excited by the white sand and beautiful waters so I stripped down to my bathers and ran into the water.  Cold and refreshing!  I was soon joined by the others and we roamed around the beach.  The wind was quite strong and sent the 99% quartz sand scouring across our bodies.  We spotted several sting rays in the water and were lucky to also see a small lemon shark.

We returned to the Boomerang and had a chance to snorkel around some reefs and see the local fish and coral.

The day had tired me out so I spend a few hours relaxing in my bed before joining the rest of the passengers for some fun on our last night.

The rising sun signalled a new morning and after some more snorkelling we returned to Airlie Beach.  We bid farewell to the lot and moved out.  We agreed to meet Gemma and the other girls in the town of Agnes Water the next day.  We left quickly after that as we had a long day of driving ahead of us. 

We passed Rochester and drove on towards a place called Emu Park where we would spend the night. 

And then it was off to Agnes Water, otherwise known as the town of 1770.  This was the year that Captain Cook discovered the area.  We met up with the girls and enjoyed some nice fish and chips while enjoying a walk along the beach.  It was a great day to relax and chill after being on the go for so long. 

We dropped them back at their hostel a few hours later and continued on to Hervey Bay (pronounced Harvey Bay) where we checked in at the YHA.  The next day we would be embarking on our two day tour of Fraser Island with Cool Dingo Tours.  Fraser is the largest sand island in the world and would feature some amazing natural sights.

We caught an early morning ferry and met up with our tour group.  The Cool Dingo tour is sold as an 18-31 year old experience, but it seemed that we had caught the 27-36 year old group!  Most tours on Fraser Island take place in 4WD Jeeps but our tour would take place on a 4WD bus!  This didn’t bother us too much, as we would still get to see everything on the island.  Our first stop was McKenzie Lake where we shared lunch with the rest of the group.  Our group had some great people whom we enjoyed conversing with.

We later ventured on two rainforest walks before returning to the hostel for dinner and drinks.

We woke to a hot breakfast and traveled to 75 Mile beach, where the 4WD was finally used.  The bus rolled onto the beach and made its way across the sand.  We stoped along the way to check out a shipwreck, Eli Creek, and a place called Indian Head, which offered superb views of the ocean.

We continued on to some pools in which we enjoyed a swim by the ocean.  Unfortunately, I ventured onto some barnacles and was pushed down by a wayward wave, cutting my foot in the process.  Another wave swept over me, this time taking my glasses clean off my face.  This was the second pair I had lost in Australia!

I would now have to depend on my prescription sunglasses and my contacts until I ordered a new pair.

We returned to the hostel and enjoyed some dinner before catching the ferry back to the mainland.

Our trip was almost at an end as we were only a few days away from reaching Brisbane.  Our next stop was Noosa where the National Park waited for us.  We checked in at the Nomads hostel there and decided on some Dominoes Pizza for dinner.  The night continued with some cups of goon, a wet t-shirt contest (that featured more guys than girls) and a late night visit to Pizza Hut!

Noosa NP!!
The next day we embarked on a journey along the coastal track of Noosa National Park, taking in its wondrous views and sandy beaches.  The high cliffs gave us a great vantage point to see the disappearing backs of whales in the ocean, and the cliffs of Hell’s Gate were spectacular in their dangerous form.

It was fitting to end the night in this ocean town with a seafood basket.

Our final day was now upon us.  We would be driving into Brisbane to return the car and to embark on the next leg of our journey.  Guillaume, Jean-Michel, and I had jived so well on this trip.  I guess it also helped that we had similar tastes in music!

Wild Horse Mountain Lookout!
We stopped at the Wild Horse Mountain scenic lookout along the way.  We had to walk up a steep hill to get there but it was most certainly worth it.  We were treated to a 360 degree view of the mountainous area, breathtaking in its beauty.  


We packed back in the car and drove on towards the city.  Brisbane soon came into our sights and we made our way past Story Bridge and into my next home-to-be, Bunk Backpackers.






Check out Australia Adventure: Phase I!
                 Australia Adventure: Phase II!
                 Australia Adventure: Phase III!
                 Australia Adventure: West Coast Story Pt 1
                 Australia Adventure: West Coast Story Pt 2
                 Australia Adventure: To the Top End!
                 Australia Adventure: Darwin and Kakadu National Park
                 Australia Adventure: Down the Track and to the Rock! 
                 Australia Adventure: Onwards to Adelaide!
                 Australia Adventure: Once Upon a Time in Adelaide
                 Australia Adventure: Crazy in Cairns!!


Join the Facebook Group!





Saturday, November 2, 2013

Australia Adventure: Crazy in Cairns!



Flying into Cairns was like landing in the middle of a Paleozoic Paradise.  Green mountains surrounded the town, giving life to the notion that it was hosting a slew of prehistoric creatures.  I stepped off the plane and was stunned by a wave of heat.  Northern Queensland was much warmer than Southern Australia.

I made my way to Asylum (the hostel where Eli, Anne and Alex were staying) and secured myself a three-bed dorm for only $120 for the week.  This was a steal!  I hadn’t seen a dorm price like that anywhere along my travels in Australia.

I saw Eli first, but it didn’t take long to spot the other two girls.  They’ve been enjoying their time in Cairns and were gearing up for another night of partying. It doesn’t take any convincing to get me to tag along.  The rest of the night was spent in good old party fashion, rum and coke in hand, and several games of Ring of Fire.  I met the rest of the German crew they were chilling with and we partied the night away at the famous Gilligans!  We returned to the hostel at 4am, the traditional McDonalds occupying our stomachs.

The next night took me once again to Gilligans, but this time I was surprised to see a classmate of mine from high school back in Thunder Bay, Tanis!  It was cool seeing a familiar face and we arranged to meet up the next night.

Da Lagoon!
From my short time in Cairns, I had deduced a few things.  This was definitely a party town.  Backpackers came here to drink and dance at night, and be zombies during the day.  It’s hard to find work up here in the tourist season so many backpackers work for accommodation or just float by due to the cheap rates.  If you’re not careful, Cairns could suck you in for months.  It would be easy to repeat the cycle of party and sleep, party and sleep for months on end. And if you weren’t sleeping during the day, you were lounging at the lagoon by the downtown. 


The bay surrounding Cairns is filled with venomous creatures, including the box jellyfish, and as such is off limits to swimmers and beachgoers.  So the city built a lagoon (swimming pool-ish) for everyone to enjoy.  So that is where I spent my day, taking in the sun.

I meet up with Tanis and her friend Kayla (also from TBay) at their hostel and began predrinks.  We ventured off to the Woolshed later, a bar where the tables are made for dancing as long as you keep the drinks coming.

And then it was Canada Day. 

July 1st had come out of nowhere and I was excited to spend the day with other Canadians in Cairns.  It also happened to be a Mad Monday, an event that Asylum put on every week where $15 got you a personalized t-shirt and a ton of drinks. 

We headed to the lagoon, where we held a BBQ in celebration of our national day.  We were joined by throngs of Canadians, each sporting red and white attire or face paint.   After an evening of burgers and boozing, we returned to the hostel where the real party begun.

I believe it was the King’s Cup filled with goon and rum that erased my memory of the night, and created the ridiculous stories of that Canada Day.

Waking up the next morning, I realized that I had hit a tipping point in my relationship with Cairns.  I needed to do something other than drink my nights away so I booked myself on a Great Barrier Reef tour! 

I made my way to the wharf for 7:30am Wednesday morning where I boarded a Compass Cruise ship.  A cute French girl checked me in and geared me up with a wet suit, flippers and snorkel.  Her name was Meryl, and it turned out that she would be my diving guide. 

After an hour boat ride, we reached the first of the reefs.  The reef was visible as a submerged faint brown mass spanning in all directions.  We got off here for our first snorkel, plunging into the cold water.  I had rented an underwater camera and was looking forward to putting it to good use.

I swam through the waters, letting my flippers propel me around the reef.  Colours of the visible spectrum surrounded me, penetrating the darkness of the depths.  The reef itself was beautiful, sheltering schools of fish from the stronger currents.  I dove down, holding my breath as I captured the intense colours of the coral and the motions of the fish on my camera.

I returned to the boat, excited from the snorkel and anxious to go on my first dive.  The boat started up again and we made it to the next location.  Meryl called us over and we geared up.  They fitted us with a weight belt and slipped our tanks on.  We slid into the water, holding onto a rope as Meryl adjusted our buoyancy. 

We started off linking arms, but Meryl deemed me fit enough to go off on my own.  She signalled to me to not go too deep or too far away.  Scuba diving was a phenomenal experience.  I propelled myself through the water, inhaling the oxygen from my tank and snapping away with my camera.  The reef looked even more beautiful from the depths and I was enthralled with the discovery of its secrets.  So distracted was I, that I almost missed the sea turtle swimming towards us!  It came so close, brushing by as I moved my body out of its way. 

Unfortunately, I had managed to tick Meryl off.  I had begun swimming a little too far away from the group and with a slight reproach, she linked me back into the group and we carried on.  I surfaced, ecstatic about my experience. 

Back on board, I gave Meryl an apology before returning to the top deck.  Now, for the past few hours there had been a guy and a girl (slightly younger than me) that had been looking in my direction.  So when I was close enough I decided to engage them in conversation. 

After a few minutes, they said to me, “So you really don’t remember us do you?”  It turned out that we had partied together during the night of Canada Day!!  Due to that King’s Cup (and the many drinks that followed) I had no memory of us meeting.  Then they told me that they had picture evidence!  The girl, Lottie, whipped out her phone and showed pictures of us all at the hostel!

After catching up with them, I decided to go diving a second time.  Such a rush!

Back at the hostel, I made my goodbyes to my German travel mates.  Eli had left the day before, hitching a ride down to Brisbane, and it seemed like Alex would do the same.  Anne had made arrangements to return to Germany, as her wisdom teeth were coming out and she was annoyed with the pain.

Darkness fell soon after and with that the party started.  Another night lost to Cairns and the dance floors of the Woolshed and Gilligans.

I woke the next morning, tired of the Cairns cycle.  I decided to look on Gumtree for travel partners for the Daintree Rainforest and Cape Tribulation north of the town.  I saw an ad placed by two Germans and arranged to meet them at the lagoon.  Their names were Anka and Philip, and they seemed like good candidates for traveling with.  We sussed each other out, trading stories and some good laughs.  And with that, a deal was struck.  The three of us, along with another German girl named Anni, would rent a van from Juicy rentals and take five days to do the rainforest and the waterfall circuit. 

I met all three of my travel companions at the Coles supermarket the next day where we stocked up on food for our travels.  The shopping took far too long and we didn’t end up leaving till 5:30pm.  Our ride was a bright green and purple Juicy campervan.  It had enough space inside for the four of us and our bags, and also featured a sink and fridge at the rear.  On top of the van was the penthouse, a compartment that could be propped up to sleep two.  We drove a short distance before stopping at Port Douglas to cook dinner by the beach.


The next day we continued towards the Daintree Rainforest, stopping at Mossman gorge along the way.  Here we were witness to large insects and wild turkeys!  After a [very] short ferry, we arrived in the Daintree!  Our first stop was Myall beach where we had breakfast.  We embarked on a rainforest walk there, marvelling at the tropical plants.

We drove on to Cape Tribulation, a long stretch of beach that was graced by warm sunlight and light blue waters.  We had to walk through the rainforest to get there, stumbling out of the trees and onto the sand.  Looking back, it was easy to see that the tours were all vindicated by proclaiming this to be the place where the rainforest meets the beach!

The afternoon was spent exploring the beach, taking in the sun and drawing in the sand.

Over the next two days, we made our way back down south, taking an alternate route to visit the waterfalls around Northern Queensland.  There were some spectacular sights, even though the weather soured on us and began to rain.  We also stopped by Innot Hot springs and dunked our legs in the hot stream.

Wednesday morning fell upon us and we began driving back to Cairns.  I had enjoyed the sights of the last five days, but I was glad to be leaving my German travel mates.  We had remained cordial and friendly towards each other during the trip but we had not clicked as well as I had hoped.

Back in Cairns, I feared I would fall into the cycle again.  But I truly enjoyed that first night back, signalling a shift in my Cairns experience.  Over the next few days my attention turned towards my blog.  I began writing out my journey, a task I had sorely neglected.

I woke one morning and slipped on my iPod headphones, selecting one of my favourite songs ‘Ghosts and Stuff’ by Deadmau5.  As I stepped into the sunlight, a remarkable feeling engulfed my body.  I started feeling light and euphoric.  I was stunned by the sudden change and couldn’t stay still so I decided to go for my first run in months.  I stuck Deadmau5 on replay and kept on moving.  I made it all the way to the waterfront before the feeling began to ebb.  I wanted to bottle this sensation. I wanted to have it at my beck and call, on demand and in full force.  I would search for this feeling again.

And it was that night that I made my future travel arrangements.  Two Quebecois, Guillaume and Jean-Michel, had been at the hostel for the last several nights and we had been partying it up.  So over a few cups of goon, I managed to convince the two of them to rent a car with me and travel down the coast of Queensland.  We would leave Wednesday!

And so my time in Cairns came to an end.  My next journey was in front of me and I had two mates along for the ride.  The next two weeks were going to be awesome!



Check out Australia Adventure: Phase I!
                 Australia Adventure: Phase II!
                 Australia Adventure: Phase III!
                 Australia Adventure: West Coast Story Pt 1
                 Australia Adventure: West Coast Story Pt 2
                 Australia Adventure: To the Top End!
                 Australia Adventure: Darwin and Kakadu National Park
                 Australia Adventure: Down the Track and to the Rock! 
                 Australia Adventure: Onwards to Adelaide!
                 Australia Adventure: Once Upon a Time in Adelaide


Join the Facebook Group!